In a nutshell
- 🔍 A revived 90s backstage hack: using Preparation H on cheekbones for a temporary de‑puffing and lift that photographs like contour—effective but strictly off‑label.
- 🧪 Why it works: phenylephrine causes vasoconstriction to reduce swelling, while rich emollients add a soft-focus sheen; formulas vary, so read labels and avoid steroid/anesthetic versions.
- 🎯 How to apply: tap a pea-sized amount (or dilute with moisturizer/primer) along the upper cheekbone, let it set, then layer makeup; avoid the eye area and stop if irritation occurs.
- ⚖️ Benefits vs. trade-offs: quick, budget-friendly lift but short-lived; potential for sensitivity, greasiness, or pilling—caution for reactive skin and keep use occasional.
- 🔄 Smarter substitutes: polymer “lifting primers,” caffeine gels, peptide formulas, luminous balms, plus tools like chilled rollers or gua sha to mimic the effect with fewer risks.
Backstage in the 1990s, makeup artists whispered about a strange but effective trick: a dab of Preparation H on the cheekbones to carve out instant structure. The logic was simple—borrow a cream designed to deflate puffiness and watch it create a temporary tighten-and-lift effect that reads as contour on camera. Decades later, that hack circulates once more, buoyed by social feeds and red-carpet rumor. While it’s undeniably old-school, pros still reach for it in a pinch because it can smooth, de-puff, and add a subtle sheen. It’s an off-label cosmetic use—so treat it as a temporary, editorial trick rather than a daily routine.
Why Preparation H Landed in Makeup Kits
Hemorrhoid creams often rely on phenylephrine, a vasoconstrictor that shrinks blood vessels and reduces swelling. On the face, that translates to less puffiness and an immediate, if short-lived, sense of tightness where you tap it on. Many formulas also contain rich emollients—think petrolatum or mineral oil—that create a soft-focus sheen. That optical gloss can mimic a highlighter’s gleam while the taut feel reads as a sculpted cheek. The effect is temporary and cosmetic, not corrective, but on set or under event lighting, it can look convincingly sharp.
Not all versions are created equal. Some contain phenylephrine; others lean mostly on occlusives for slip and comfort. Products with added steroids or anesthetics are not intended for cosmetic use and can aggravate sensitive skin. Always check the label, avoid the eye area, and do a patch test. The enduring appeal is pragmatic: this humble tube is inexpensive, widely available, and delivers a quick payoff that cameras appreciate.
How Pros Apply It for Cheekbone Lift
Artists approach it like a targeted primer. After skincare, they dot a pea-sized amount of Preparation H onto the upper cheekbone—just beneath where you’d place highlighter—then tap to blend outward. Many dilute it 1:1 with a lightweight moisturizer or silicone primer to temper potency and improve spread. Wait two to three minutes for the film to set before applying base. Keep it off broken skin, avoid the under-eye, and never use inside the eye area.
For longevity, pair with a sheer layer of foundation and set the perimeter—not the glossy top—with translucent powder, preserving a natural radiance. Cream bronzer or contour placed slightly below the treated area amplifies the optical lift, while a pinpoint of classic highlighter at the apex adds dimension. Expect the effect to last a few hours, varying by skin type and climate. Discontinue use if you notice stinging, redness, or dryness, and consult a professional if irritation persists.
Benefits and Trade-Offs
The hack delivers visible quick wins, but it’s not a perfect fit for every face. The same vasoconstrictive action that tames puffiness can provoke sensitivity, and occlusive shine may tip into grease on oilier complexions. Here’s the reality at a glance:
| Effect or Claim | Mechanism | Caveats |
|---|---|---|
| De-puffing, subtle lift | Vasoconstriction and temporary tightening | Short-lived; potential rebound redness |
| Smoother makeup grip | Waxes and emollients create slip | Possible pilling with silicone-heavy layers |
| Soft-focus sheen | Petrolatum/mineral oil reflect light | Can read oily under flash or heat |
| Budget-friendly standby | Accessible price and availability | Off-label; not tested as a face primer |
For some, it’s a camera-ready miracle; for others, a mixed bag. Use sparingly and only where you want lift. Those with rosacea, eczema, or highly reactive skin should be cautious. The golden rule remains: if your skin protests, stop. A tailored routine—and a pro-grade primer—often achieves similar polish without the unknowns.
Modern Alternatives That Mimic the Trick
If you love the idea but prefer purpose-built products, a new guard of instant-lift options can approximate that tightened, sculpted look. Polymer-based “lifting” primers create a micro-film that subtly firms while gripping makeup. Caffeine serums and gels reduce surface puffiness by constricting vessels, and peptide-spiked formulas can smooth texture for a cleaner contour line. For radiance, opt for balmy highlighters with micro-fine pearls—strategically placed, they deliver the same dimensional gleam without the risk of greasiness.
Tools also do heavy lifting. A chilled stainless-steel roller or gua sha swept along the cheekbone can deflate morning swelling in minutes. Then refine shape with cream bronzer and a pinpoint highlight at the apex of the cheek. Choose fragrance-free, non-comedogenic picks if you’re breakout-prone. This toolkit keeps the spirit of the 90s hack—fast, photogenic results—while leaning on formulas designed for the face and tested for daily wear.
There’s a reason this 90s contouring secret refuses to retire: it works quickly, photographs beautifully, and costs the price of a high-street lunch. Yet it’s still an off-label move with limits, better reserved for special occasions and resilient skin. The smarter play is to understand the effect—de-puff, tighten, reflect light—and recreate it with targeted skincare, clever application, and modern primers. When you need that last-minute lift, will you reach for the backstage classic, or try a purpose-built alternative that promises the same snap without the gamble?
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